Ken Russell's wife, Lisi Russell on "Django Unchained"

(Ken Russell's wife Lisi, who grew up in the South, has been kind enough to give us her extended take on "Django Unchained" as a film historian and a white Southerner. Having worked with her husband on dozens of  film and literary projects she is also the keeper of his legacy. Here she also gives us an insight to how Ken Russell would have seen the film -including his influences found within -wrapped up in her superb writing style.)


"Django Unchained. Seriously loved it. Was surprised. The essence and details of Southern history were captured so well. When blood sprinkles the cotton in the fields, only an atavistic response is possible if you have history in the South.  By "atavistic"  I mean a trigger for primal coding which erupts in the presence of something so welded to blood responses going back 5 generations and more for Southerners. I become the slave, the cotton, the sharecropper, the plantation idiot that was traded and was trading in souls and bodies for the sake of that piece of fluff. 

My father's father picked cotton, though it was so shameful to him that he denied it as an adult, as there was no position so low in South Carolina as a picker of cotton and none so lucrative for someone else other than the picker. Back-breaking work. My father became a civil rights journalist - no surprise there. He used to say often when I was 5, "If I were a black man, I'd be blood-curdlingly angry." My father was anyway, just as a witness. The Klu Klux Klan burned a cross in our yard when I was 9. Cotton, tobacco and paper are what made the South the harborer of insane exploits, stubborn self-righteousness, self-hypnosis and repeated denials dating to the Civil War. It's genetic,  the response of a Southerner to the sight of King Cotton - it hurts out loud. No matter what side you were on in the 1800's - and who knows what our past lives were then-something still throbs in the blood when confronted with a cotton field. The millions of lies that formed the foundation to prop up a society which to this day can still be overheard saying in some parts, "But they liked being slaves." All that blood and nonsense for the sake of a bud and I don't mean Rosebud. Even the sight of a field of cotton is an insult to a black or sensitive Southerner. Damn, that shot of the cotton plants with the blood spilled on them...made me crazy with the power of the image.

Yes, the Verdi and Tosca were very Ken Russell.  As were the head-bagged KKK-ers. The big tooth on springs bouncing on the wagon-top was very Ken too, as (this shocked me) especially was the story of Siegfried and the dragon and Brunehilda - how many times did Ken tell the story of showing that rented silent film at 14 (during the 1930s) in his parents' garage (to his own invented soundtrack of Arthur Bliss). Oh, I love that music in Django.  I didn't know Will Smith was first tagged for the role. I am so happy Jamie Foxx did it. He was so triumphant. He could play every nuance.

The hick whose English is totally indecipherable is a still-current archetype. Those men with their killer dog-posse are my personal boogeymen. The stupidity of evil. The music choices are heart-stoppingly sublime. The Southern belle is criminally accurate. The variety of responses to slavery is the kind of intimate glimpse into character Tarantino gave us in Inglorious Basterds. Imaginative, detailed, grown-up and riveting. The splurting-blood card is for me overplayed, and seems adolescent more than realistic, but the violence was apt for the subject matter and Jamie Foxx was truly magnificent and his character subtly layered. Loved the underlying, recurrent homage to Sergio Leone with the costumes, the poise on horseback and the absolutely perfect, inimitable music by Ennio Morricone. (Although the blue "valet" costume was more a Ken Russell movie.) A masterpiece, in all.

I agree there were homages to Blazing Saddles too. Anyone who has heard Ray Hicks tell his folk stories will recognise that indecipherable "Elizabethan English" language dating to slave-trading Tennessee and South Carolina on the way to Tarantino's "Candyland." (Brilliant name for a plantation; and DiCaprio was superb.)  The hand cut was so brilliant. And the rubbing his bloody hand on her face was so aptly horrific. It was also Tarantino's best acting yet. Easily Tarantino's most impressive movie. Incredibly deep and rich. He should be honoured for this. It's true filmmaking. I respected the Colour Purple, but the clean, spacious and airy perfection of  Spielberg's sharecropper houses irritated me.

 How great was it to see Dennis Christopher from Breaking Away again. Tarantino is great at rescuing actors. Bless him! Samuel L. Jackson had the hardest role. When that sound erupted from him regarding DiCaprio (trying not to spoiler alert), that was a one-note master class in Stockholm Syndrome. You could feel their vampiric co-attachment being sliced and diced all the way to your bones. A better vocal performance than Laurence Olivier howling as Oedipus! 

I didn't even notice Django was a comedy. That's how warped I am by my overly conflicted love/hate for the South - the heavy-duty programming and grooming (hate) and the literature and movements that sprang up in response (love). An image of rice would evoke nostalgia, (all Southerners eat rice and worship their ancestors, like the Chinese), but it's cotton that makes me react viscerally. Cotton makes me crazy! Why? I don't know. It's a behavioural pattern based on the memories of my ancestors and conversations with descendants of slaves. I have always wondered why Britain seems unaffected by their own slaving history - I've never even heard it mentioned. Is it that Southerners are romantic, land-bound and volatile by nature? They lost the war and are still ashamed? Unwilling to have been wrong? Or am I alone in caring in an emotionally unconscious way that says more about my childhood than about fact? The memories are inherited, if such a thing is possible. . . the behaviour in present time is a hair-trigger response to an image of slavery. Too many family stories, too many logbooks and bibles, too many dreams registering the whole bloody mess. 

It was the land which made a Southerner mad with possession - that verdant, fertile landscape with its heavy-blossomed and perfumed flowers. Hence the term "land-poor" so popular in the South. That means all the money is tied up in owning land and there is no cash. But the way you relate to the land is on your knees with your hands in the soil - for North Carolina, the red clay, for South Carolina, the black loam. They call Carolinians Tar Heels - because our feet drag through rivers and get natural tar on our heels, not because of the melting asphalt in the summer which also creates tar heels on bare feet. It's all about the land - and soil - and the perfumed drug of fertility - and the hound dogs - and the way the silver is laid out - just like Tarantino showed in Django. It's still like that in many ways. Even I had a "mammy" - with my dad the hero of integration. I broke a habit of expecting 15 pieces of dinnerware at table - I have those same salt cellars as Candyland did! Nothing changes in the South. The land always wins. And the people remember, without logic, whom and what they sold to hang on to the land."

Farewell to Michael Winner, the Underrated Genius of British Cinema 30 October 1935 – 21 January 2013

(I've been behind on finishing my review of Pete Townshend's "Who I Am" whilst caught up in raging  "Django Unchained" euphoria -seeing it for the third time tomorrow-but I am remiss in not honouring this great man's passing two weeks ago so here we go.)

If Ken Russell is the British Fellini then Michael Winner is the DeSica of 60s and early 70s England. Both men proudly referenced Fellini in their work but it was Winner that stayed closer to the non-surreal and everyday comedy of errors and romance when Ken went on to out -Fellini Fellini with "The Boyfriend", "Dance of The Seven Veils" , "Mahler" and "The Devils". Both men used a family of actors, actresses and crew (Russell for his entire fifty plus year career). Both men were also flamboyant food and wine loving raconteurs making them "honorary Italians" in my book (and as an Italian myself I should know!)

                  (Oliver Reed forever blowing bubbles in "The System aka The Girl Getters" 1964)

Upon leaving for Hollywood to make action films like "Death Wish" and "Won Ton Ton The Dog Who Saved Hollywood",  Mr. Winner left behind a body of work as boldly artistic as any of the great British directors easily making him the most underrated one of the lot. The irony that Oliver Reed did his finest work with both Mr.Winner and Ken is not lost on me. Both men were able to stand up to "His Reedness", showcase his erotic beauty and place him perfectly within the physical scope of the photogenic landscapes that all three loved so much; England. Like a virtual lock of hair, my direct tweets from Mr. Winner about his films are something I will always treasure.

("We're like Laurel and Hardy but more abusive" John Cleese on his best friend Michael Winner)


Both "The System" (1964) and  "I'll Never Forget Whatisname" (1967)  are the two films I watched the night Michael Winner bid us farewell. The following day I watched "Hannibal Brooks" (1969) which is his transitional film to Hollywood as an action director. While Ken made the men (in Raquel Welch's words)  "turn around" and let their penises swing for all to see, it was Winner who for the first time in modern cinema made a man cry in anguish when he used for sex and dumped in "The System". He was also the first to imply a woman receiving oral sex (INFW) and enjoying it immensely; a land mark moment for the sexual revolution and the MPPA. Both The System and INFW are monuments to the sexual and cultural mores which were breaking down and rebuilding at the time yet Roger Vadim's "And God Created Woman" gets all the credit.  With later controversial films like "The Nightcomers" (1971) Winner is thee unsung hero of pushing sexual boundaries in mainstream major studio backed films. That alone is worthy of it's own separate post.

 INFW is by far and away the most intelligent film about the swinging 60s and also the most dazzling. "Smashing Time" is more colourful (just barely), "Magic Christian" more hedonistic for certain. Lindsay Anderson's "...If" more socially concious and "Performance" more artistic (again just barely) but INFW is by far and away the most honest film about swinging London. Standing as a veritable time capsule of the era. Shoot that one into space to explain London in the 60s and you'll be covered. Many great montage sequences of post war 60's Britain including some postcard shots of Cambridge complete with Emily Choir style "oooo woooo" background singers and an astonishing "advert" that Ollie's ego maniacal character Quint creates to give the middle finger to the advertising establishment at a swank London awards show. The advert is still shocking today in ANY context proves to be a smash however. The fetching Carol White (rest in peace) is brilliant as the secretary who squanders her self worth on Quint while Orson Welles plays Jonathan Lute, Quint's conniving and lovingly sardonic boss. Look for Winner perennials Harry Andrews, Frank Finlay and Norman Rodway and countless iconic Swinging London locations (Robert Fraser's Gallery, Biba, The Troubadour, Battersea power station, Soho, Mayfair etc)

 Winner and Reed's first major film The System (aka The Girl Getters) may be my most favourite of the lot because to watch it is to go back in time to the seaside era of post war Britain which is an era that  I hear so much about. Torquay is proper seaside as well over two hours drive from London and on the far southwest coast. Great film shot in black and white with beautiful glittering shots of the beach, delightful music and Oliver Reed at his freshest playing the very handsome young local photographer (Tinker) who's on the pull for townie girls, land ladies and even tourist girls on holiday. Jane Merrow is also divine as the shapely upper class model who's father owns an estate in town and who wants to remain wholly unattached while enjoying her sexuality. I kept wanting to be both characters: the local photog with loads of friends and the beautiful buxom teenage model with her entire life ahead of her. Surely this could be remade?

Hannibal Brooks with the fantastic Michael J Pollard (who still looks great today) and Lucy the Elephant is Winner's last cinematography love letter to Europe before eventually becoming an ex pat Hollywood director. Making mainstream Hollywood films like "The Mechanic",  "Death Wish" and "The Sentinel" (watch out for Beverly D'Angelo going 'solo' in a leotard) and his notorious remake of  "The Big Sleep" saw flair and usually ticket sales but nothing as heartfelt as these early masterpieces. I give him full credit for making money and taking care of himself though. (The amount of unfair shit thrown at Michael Winner for being successful is simply shameful.) "Hannibal Brooks" delights though it is a nail biter for an large mammal defender like myself. It is a transitional film in the sense that it features many intense action sequences and distressing situations (even for a standard war film) not seen in Winner's earlier London/UK centric work yet the love of lush scenery (this time Europe) is still apparent. Stunning cinematography-especially of the Alps and the authentic Germany and Swiss peoples. It was on the set of "Hannibal Brooks" that Ollie, loyal to Winner's judgement, was visited by Ken and offered "The Debussy film". Not wanting to "step down to television" Winner convinced him to work with Ken and the rest is history.

                          You got a friend. Lucy and Oliver Reed on the set of Hannibal Brooks.


"The Jokers" (1967) , a delightful film, can't be left out of Winner's early oeuvre nor can Francis Lai's unparalleled scores for HB and INFW. "The Jokers" stars Michael Crawford as an upper class Army reject and Ollie as his brother who hatch a plot to steal the Crown Jewels. Sadly the film has ver had any kind of release, even if I'm not mistaken, VHS and  is only available on You Tube but it is well worth a watch. Opening music is fab, sitar flavoured dramatic booming brass. More "Swinging London" - the film makers great use of London locations rivals INFW. Included is a short sequence of Jezebel, a 1916 Dennis N-Type fire engine (still owned and run by the Royal College of Science Union at Imperial College London), the Tower of London (but of course) and loads of great shots of the West End. While Johnny Pearson is The Joker's soundtrack composer /God Francis Lai scored both INFW and Hannibal Brooks with some of the most poignant sounds ever.

I can go on and on and undoubtedly will create some kind of longer and more elaborate tribute to Mr. Winner one day but for now I'd like to ask all off you out there to see one of these earlier films and celebrate the man, the country of England and his genius.

Robert Michael Winner 1935-2013  Rest in peace.

 
God, filled with mercy, dwelling in the heavens' heights, bring proper rest beneath the wings of your Shechinah, amid the ranks of the holy and the pure, illuminating like the brilliance of the skies the souls of our beloved and our blameless who went to their eternal place of rest. May You who are the source of mercy shelter them beneath Your wings eternally, and bind their souls among the living, that they may rest in peace. And let us say: Amen -Kaddish Jewish prayer

For the love of Ken Russell

The above picture of Ken Russell calls to mind The TEMPTATIONS OF DR. ANTONIO (LE TENTAZIONI DEL DOTTOR ANTONIO) from Boccacio 70 by Fellini who once told Ken, "They call me the Italian Ken Russell!" 

The film can be viewed in screen caps on the indispensable American Buddha website.

Sandy Newton, Syria, Regents Canal, Chicago, Kruger National Park

The greatest warriors, scientists, doctors and astrologers, without exception, have to bow to nature's common law, death.

October 1922,
Lord Meher Baba 2 p431

THE DISCIPLES OF SHIRLEY RUSSELL: THE 2013 ULTIMATE BUYER'S GUIDE TO VINTAGE REPRODUCTION AND PINUP CLOTHING (from Petite to Plus Size all you need to know)

 In honour of Shirley Russell, the High Priestess of Vintage Reproduction and the British Edith Head who's unparalleled 1950s reproduction costumes for the film "Tommy" I covered in detail earlier this year, here is a list of thee best places to buy Vintage Repro (VR) on the planet.  Back when Ken and Shirley were working on his early short films, they'd comb Portabello road and Camden town collecting Victorian and 20's treasures and throughout Ken's entire film career he used vintage clothing to wonderful effect.

I've been wearing and collecting vintage since I was about 11 years old and with the help of my loving, patient hubby, I have spent the two past years building my Pin Up wardrobe to fuller proportions in preparation for the launch of superamanda.com and superamanda.co.uk. and because it makes a big difference in comfort and style to wear mid-century era clothing for my body type. I sincerely believe that any body type can wear vintage reproduction clothing and feel fantastic. You can create curves where none seemingly were before and sculpt a fuller plus size figure that seems lost and amorphous in lowrise clothing.

Unlike many msm reviewers and fashion writers (few magazines ever properly cover vintage repro), I either own or have tried almost on every single line listed below.  This list would not have been possible without the master list created by professional fashion writer and blogger Gemma Cartwright who runs Big Girls Browse, a real size fashion blog. Though I knew the majority of the names on her master list very well , Gemma's expertise turned me onto Get Cutie, Lady Vintage and Big Beautiful Barbara Brown; three must know names  for VR addicts.

The first list below is actual designer lines of VR I primarily wear and therefore have the most experience with. Bernie Dexter, Whirling Turban and Tara Starlet are on top but after that, there is no order of how they rank as all are fantastic. The second, is a list of Vintage Reproduction boutiques and stores that I have yet to experience or who feature smaller house lines whilst the third list entails stores that sell all of the above.

Lines and stores were only included if...
-they offer great customer service (how I was treated online and in person with no one knowing I was buying, much less reviewing)
- fair and easy return policy on non -vintage and non-bespoke (custom made) items.
- did not have outlandish "restocking fees" which are unjust. Just say "no returns".
-high quality product, not simply "cute" or "trendy"
-Nothing sourced from Asia especially China and Vietnam who are criminally  liquidating the few Rhinos and Tigers still left on the planet. Thus no Hell Bunny, Dead Souls Army or Trashy Diva and definitely no foul, evil Queen of Holloway who are ripping off  Bernie Dexter and so many others.
- the seller offers a website that shows their product very clearly  

And ideally they did not:
 -Sell me an item at full price with inflated shipping and then post the same item on Ebay four days later at a rock bottom price. One major Vintage Repro name is absent for this reason.
 -charge my card and then not have the item in stock multiple times
 -refuse to return emails
- inflate prices
- use Confederate flags and other unwholesome sleazy or racially arcane motifs
 -offer poor quality for the money
- have a bad fit
- have rude, "can't be arsed" service
- distort the colours of the fabric of their items with photoshop


*What is true to size?  (see asterix below this post) UK sizing, even in Vintage Repro runs smaller than US overall-sometimes as much as three sizes. Obviously few of us are going to fall within these exact numbers but this is a clear indication of how to shop via this list. Ideally you get a specific size chart for that clothing line but not always. My measurements are a very hourglassy 44(32GG)-28-40 and I'm almost 5'10 so I'm wearing a 12 to even 18 in some lines with tailoring. I'm not truly plus size, closer to what I call 'real size' but my frame and bust line means I often by XL and over.  I have friends who are in the 4 to 6 range as well as the plus size. In my late teens and early 20's I wore a US junior's 9/10 and was 37 (32EE)-25-38 inch waist, then for a good solid five years in the Noughties I taught Pilates, exercised full time and was an athlete at about 39 (34F) -27- 38, and I was a true full figured plus size for a time after pregnancy and due to breastfeeding 48(34H)-36-47. Apart from never having been very thin or very overweight, I doubt there is any body type that would be news for me and there are many of photos of me one My Space to back this up. Thus unlike many Pin up clothing reviewers I've dramatically run the gamut on fit and really know my stuff.

Special Sizing: Currently there is no single VR line solely doing Plus Size or Petite vintage. You do have lines like Pin Up Girl Clothing and Bettie Page which go up to 2x and 4X and use fabrics like bengaline and viscose that work with many plus size figures though. You also can find many bespoke Pin up dresses thanks to ETSY.  Smaller built and petite gals can rejoice in lines like Jones and Jones and Trollied Dolly which only go up to a UK12/US 9-10.  As frustrating as this can be this offers smaller busted and slightly built gals a chance to rock Vintage Repro without needing to fill the "buxom bombshell" slot. Vintage Reproduction is for ALL body types after all. As of this writing Bernie dexter is phasing out all 1X and 2X sizing so act quick.

Note: This list does not include bespoke etsy sellers/designers or vendors who solely sell vintage.


THE TOP VINTAGE REPRODUCTION LINES

1. Bernie Dexter Rockabilly Girl (Made in The USA)

 Bernie Dexter ticks all the boxes and is my most favourite vintage reproduction line on the planet. Here is an indepth guide for loyal Bernie Dexter collectors of which I'm proudly one. This is not only craftsmanship with a scholar's knowledge of VR but customer service at her finest; the kind of customer service where the client leaves metaphorically with their dress in a beauteous striped box with a satin ribbon around it. Ten years from now, Bernie Dexter 100% cotton dresses will be the only non bespoke VR line that will not have lost it's resale value. Various lines have copied and attempted to use the same or similar fabrics and failed abysmally because Bernie designs for specifically the hourglass figure. It is no accident that the sellers who stock her items are also class acts. Bernie Dexter's line of dresses, separates and denim has raised the bar on vintage reproduction because she's so meticulous in her choices of high thread count fabrics and designs. Don't be put off by the seemingly simple unfussiness of these designs, these dresses can be belted in, tailored and personalized or worn 'as is' by ALL figures. A Bernie Dexter dress accentuates the girl wearing it not the brand which is crucial. Her fit (up to 2X: UK 20 US18 EU48) in most items including denim is amazing. (Note: As of Winter 2012, Bernie Dexter has now phased out all 1X and 2X! :( so act quick if you want any of these designs. Drop her a nice note if you are a plus size gal and let's hope she changes her mind :) Bernie's dresses run sizing consistent with her chart with a necessary 1/2 inch extra for comfort (a must for her mostly 100% cotton designs) and are made of primarily cotton broadcloth with necklines/busts that vary slightly in fit. If the neckline is open like the Pearl or Chelsea style than go with your usual size or size down. If the neckline is closed like the Koi Varick, Picnic or Stephanie then size up. Her denim is unrivalled, her knitwear high quality (size down) and I want to own everything she makes. To top it all off her clothing is FUN to wear and wearable.

Signature: Cherry Blossom dress in Fifi, Pearl and a Chelsea collar necklines & denim capris
Sizing: True to size with enclosed busts running one size smaller
Fits: As of Winter 2013 XS to XL with all1X and 2X styles discontinued but still available.
Avoid: Nothing
Do note: Many of her items are made to order so shipping may require a well worth it wait

2. Tara Starlet (Made in The UK).

Tara Starlet's craftsmanship and styling is of the highest quality. The ENTIRE line is vintage reproduction with virtually no modern fabrics like bengaline and no nods to any modern cuts. TS uses end of roll fabrics which not only means they are helping the environment but you end up with a garment almost no one else will have. They also offer Hawaiian clothing made of real Hawaiian fabric from the island itself!  TS has perfected a look that is sexy, Victory girl and British belle all at once. Tara Starlet fits best on petite sizes up going to a trim UK 14 which is a US Juniors 13/14 with fit all over the map at times so call customer service if you have any questions. In a few (emphasise on few) dresses which have open necklines or stretch satin you may get away with a much larger fit in the bust with free hips. Tara Starlet cuts many busts on their standard collar bust bustier/smaller ribcage shape which is used for a large portion of their halter tops, evening, day and wiggle dresses. I'm at the very top of their sizing and can attest that large busted women (FF cup and over) will need tailoring or to simply opt out as a few necklines will not work at all on big breasts (even if the rest of you fits) If you have a classic thin Audrey Hepburn or trim modestly busted figure that you don't think will look good wearing vintage then think again, because you can rock this line. Ideally it is made for trimmer and  A to 32DDUK cup busted gals.

Signature item: Sailor Pants and Sailor shorts. The best anywhere.
Sizing: Varies, call if you have any questions
Fits: Not recommended for the full figured, very buxom or even remotely plus size. Most styles only fit up to a US size 13/14 tops.Collar bust cut only works on smaller bust lines.
Avoid: Nothing if it fits
Do note: Few TS items ever go one sale so grab what you want when you see it and check back often. Their founder is active in the Shoreditch community and her work is indicative true of a British Heritage label.

3. Whirling Turban (Made in Bali with ethically locally sourced Green fabrics by a small family of staff)

My first Whirling Turban playsuit arrived a few months back and it is the one of the most beautiful pieces of clothing I've ever owned. Until you actually hold the clothing in your hands you can't imagine how wonderful Katharine's work is. Questioning  Katherine's unrivalled knowledge is not advised though! I actually thought I moulded modern bra would work with vintage repros and she strongly suggested sticking with the era's conical shape. Thus when I wore a conical shape bra with a waist cincher and the fit was astonishing. My twin torpedos defied physics, nearly creating a riot on the District Line and would have made NASA proud. Her wing bust dresses and play suits are fully boned which means you really are turned up and put out to your best vintage repro couture look possible.

Signature item: Shaheen Wing Bust reproduction
Sizing: Bespoke and Vintage
Fit: Hollywood aka "like a glove".
Avoid: Buying any WT items "second hand". It's like wearing someone else's wedding ring.
Do note: This is Vintage Reproduction bespoke taken to the highest level. Shirley Russell would be proud.

4. Fables By Barrie (Made in the US)

Tucked in to a delightful San Diego store front, fables By Barrie recalls the great masters like DeGraff and Cole of California who made woman's casual wear and swimsuits to be both functional and feminine. Everything that Barrie makes is 100% easy to with many items sewn on site. She's now branched out from swimwear into dresses and jazzy capris. Customer service is top knotch and they make you feel like family.

Signature: Tuxedo swimsuit and high rise Peggy capris
Sizing: True to size
Fits: Up to an XL/14-18 in some styles with bespoke service available during less peak times. Call to check.
Avoid: Not having the proper bra, you may need one for some of the one piece swimsuits if you are very buxom.The owner kindly offered to sew mine into the swimsuit for a small fee but I found that wearing a one size too small white push-up extreme balconette did the trick.
Do note: Bikini top separates are US sizing. Ask if you have fit concerns, they are happy to help.

5. Pin Up Girl Clothing (Made in the USA)

Let's give credit where credit is due: Pin Up Girl Clothing did not create the So Cal Pin Up scene-they ARE the scene. Back in the early internet days PUG was doing it all; trying out styles, fabrics, cuts and melding it with the glorious and burgeoning rockabilly, swing, psychobilly, biker, stripper, fetish, burlesque, kustom kulture lifestyle of the West Coast. This vibe has made them the most popular Vintage Reproduction line in the world. They offer, alongside very wearable, modern takes on Pin Up styles and even clubwear with a VR twist. Many of their models and muses are swiftly becoming household names in their own right. Their creator, Laura Bynes also allows free speech on the PUG Facebook page and room for debate alongside the hundreds of thousands of loyal customers talking up the wonderful products they create. PUG is a movement unto itself!

Signature Dress(es): Blue Malibu Tiki Wrap (size large just went for over 200 used on Ebay this summer and has now been reissued in honour of Amy Winehouse who wore the dress often with a matching bolero),
The Micheline Dress and the Evelyn Dress
Fit: Check the charts and ask questions because sizing varies though once you nail the proper sizing then PUG is easy to buy and wear.
Sizing: From petite to plus size
Avoid: Nothing just check the size charts and reviews.
Do note: Returning customers get 10% of all purchases and they often have secret sales for email subscribers.

6. Dolly Dagger (Made in England)

The Dolly Dagger boutique is a vintage repro fanatics dream come true; the layout, the location, the service. You simply can't replicate the vintage reproduction shopping experience to a higher level of charm. Tucked into a charming white gingerbread store in the historic Laines section of Brighton with cute accessories and home wares artfully placed here and there, Dolly Dagger is it! They have recently expanded their small house clothing line adding over half a dozen new styles which some of the most stunning vintage style dresses anywhere in the world. The dresses with names like Brighton Belle, Paloma/Lulu, Gypsy, Scarlet etc are on the pricer side but well made locally in Brighton. The bust on the Brighton Belle looks great on smaller sizes while anyone over an E cup will need a vintage fit bra to get the proper shape. The full coverage Paloma and the Lulu is a one of a kind vintage repro I've seen nowhere else with the waist wrapping around and buttoning superbly under the bust.  There is no elastic ruching on any of the dresses so fit runs old school. Dolly Dagger is expanding their line every season so check back often.

Signature Dress: The Dolly Dagger Scarlet Dress
Sizing:  Running smaller. Check measurements as they use their own size chart which varies slightly for each dress. If you are ordering online, have them do a precise measuring of the actual garment you will be getting.
Fits: Most sizes up to 2X running slightly small. Enquire about bespoke services.
Avoid: Nothing
Do note: A delightful place to visit in the historic Brighton Laines area -do not miss out if you are in town.

7. Lady Vintage (Made in Romania and the UK)
A hidden gem which I'm only sharing out of the goodness of my heart!  You can't get a higher quality vintage repros for the price and, joy of joys, they only make a certain number of a design-often as little as 30 pieces! Plus size, petite and all sizes in between, this is "put it on and be comfortable and classy"  vintage repro.

Signature Dress: Viscose cap sleeve swing dress
Sizing: Check measurements as they use their own size chart
Fit: Runs large, even in non-plus size and through the rib cage and bust. Does not detract at all from the product which is superior.
Avoid: Nothing
Do note: Items sell out very quickly

Other lines I highly recommend, own one or two pieces from or whom I've yet to try and plan to VERY soon:

20th Century Foxy (Made in the UK):  Sells a variety of lines and has a rapidly expanding house line including a plus size line called "So Foxy". 20th Century Foxy has a lovely 40's/50's signature look all of their own and looks to be a major player on the UK vintage fashion scene. Fantastic shipping and customer service.

Vintage Suits By Mary (Made in the USA): Reputedly the highest quality vintage repro play suit/swimwear available what I see just looks astonishing. You can't tell the difference and I cannot WAIT to order!The owner is very kind and bespoke service is available.

Bettie Page Clothing (Made in the USA): Quality made in the USA range up to a 3x (sometimes 4X) with some items working as night club wear. Betty Page playsuits are not only running roomy and comfortable but are affordable. Tatyana , Beach Bash and Elvgren are the equally vintage inspired sister lines

Betty Le Bonbon (Made in Australia) A bespoke boutique offering easy care aprons and skirts in high quality fabric. The owner Jasmine helms a fabulous Tumblr account with some of the best hand picked photos of Vintage Repro anywhere on the web.

Big Beautiful Barbara Brown (Made in the UK): My new Vintage Repro crush! Looking forward to ordering and she also sells vintage.

Blue Velvet Vintage: Great website layout, a small house line of Vintage Repro called "Classic Dame", well sourced authentic vintage and great customer service. BVV carries 20's to 60's designs by other lines as well.

Fever (Various countries, check labels) UK Line which features vintage inspired clothing all of which is very well made and very cute. So many standouts they can't be named. Check them out!

Get Cutie (Made in the UK) Brighton based Vintage Repro dresses in ANY fabric you want. They aim to create anything the customer desires.
Heartbreaker (Made in the USA): Large selection of very sweet and simply VR styles in US sourced fabrics with The Sweetie dress being the standout.

Jones and Jones (Made in the UK): Offers beautiful Vintage styling (50's to 70's) and Liberty print fabrics alongside modern/70's St.Tropez cuts  for the super small and petite.

Lowie (Made in the UK) Spectacular French and Italian inspired semi-posh vintage Repro line with some British Heritage influences thrown in. Bardot would have worn them. Runs small.

New Look:  (Various countries, check labels) British High street label with roomy playsuits and great florals. Last month they became the first major retailer to release an entire Vintage Repro inspired line for the High Street with the Kelly Brook Collection.Do check out this indepth review!

Oasis: (Made in Romania and various countries, check labels) UK High Street that produces a vintage Repro line each Spring called Floral Frocks. 2011 was a standout with silk dresses which came with matching bags and scarves. 2012 had very nice cotton VR dresses running slightly small. Once they sell out they are almost impossible to find.

Puttin on the Ritz: Shirely Russell would be so proud of putting on the Ritz. This is an all bespoke 30's and 40's 100% wearable and as well made as it gets.

Queen of Heartz: Created by a vintage and fashion history expert, they offer a surprisingly large selection of roomy vintage repro dresses, rompers, and separates in high quality fabrics. QOH is the "wear to the office as well as the ball" side of vintage repro and that is a high compliment as nothing looks like a costume.

Shabby Apple: East Coast vibe with a vast selection of mostly vintage themed clothing designed to segue to day's workplace and evening out. Unless they shoot at EPCOT centre, Shabby Apple hey appaer to have a staggering budget for very well thought out and lovely international photos shoots to showcase their clothing

Stop Staring (Made in the USA): Considered THEE vintage reproduction line by many, SS is ideal for top heavy figures. The Starlight Swing dress is one of the most beautiful dresses I own, but sadly I found the Cover Girl style did not work for me. There seems to be something for everyone in their line though.

Trollied Dolly (Made in the UK): Vintage style fabrics with a wearable high street twist runs very small but Mod Cloth carries an XL (UK 12). They carry some wonderful floral prints.

What Katie Did Made in the UK): The best ready to wear and made to order corsets and waist cinchers anywhere in the world alongside their legendary vintage reproduction lingerie. Do note that new school UK sizing is not available on the bras meaning that there are no 30G, 34FF and 32GG sizing and fit is closer to old school aka bigger band size and bigger cup size which for larger busted gals can mean that the straps take the weight of the breasts. Ideally you are under a 34E to wear their bras. Katie is also one of the only manufacturers left in the world making seamed stockings on vintage machines.


ONLINE BOUTIQUES SELLING VINTAGE REPRODUCTIONS:

Red7Movies: Ebay seller with a huge selection of Bernie Dexter and Bernie Plus sizes plus some of the best service anywhere! Red7Movies will try to get you ANY Bernie Dexter dress, just ask. They also have many of the rapidly vanishing Bernie Dexter plus size dresses.

BabyGirl Boutique: Great service, huge selection including vintage and 10% return customer discount

JBR Clothing: Some of the best service anywhere!

Unique Vintage: Huge selection plus dozens of vintage finds and Bernie Dexter clothing which they usual have modelled on a non vintage figures. Customer service is very helpful via the phone but their tax, shipping and lack of any really great sales can grate. They have a massive inventory and usually offer major vintage  repro lines at slightly reduced prices. Do note that UV have to navigate the emotionally delicate world of high volume prom dress selling so cut them a bit of slack if they goof up or don't back to you instantaneously. The staff is very kind and willing to help. Sadly the house line is made in China. :(

Mod Cloth: I'm neutral on Mod Cloth. I love the vibe, the voluminous selection (dresses number into the thousands), the Bernie Dexter exclusives and all the reviews but feel a bit annoyed that they carry many UK high street and US/UK Pin Up brands and then simply rename the dresses for their own website with no brand often listed. This detracts from the original seller, the UK vibe and seems sneaky but their selection can't be denied and as I said they have many Bernie Dexter exclusives.


 *What is true to size?
In this case here is a Vintage Reproduction guide that I created combining over a dozen vintage repro size charts. Sizing is in women's not junior's fit. Do note that UK sizing as a whole usually runs smaller than US.

Bust-Waist-Hips-Dress Size

30-22-32            2
32-24-34            4
34-26-36            6
36-28-38            8
38-30-40           10
40-32-42           12
42-34-44           14
44-36-46           16
46-38-48           18
48-40-50           20

Who I Am related music

 LONG MONTH! Anyone else feeling it?

I'm reading through Pete's book a second time and working on a review. So far much of what I've read reviews wise, apart from Salon and bits of the Robert Christagau Sunday NY Times piece have not really turned me on at all nor have they done justice to this very fun book. Where is the collective sense of humour these days with the press?  Lighten up bitches!

Our son loves the pewter cover as he can unfold it and the entire book falls to the floor with a thud. How cool that it was taken by Terry "God" O'Neil too.  The nice thing for me is that I'm really playing The Who and Pete's solo stuff again. I vowed that when my son was born he would not be one of those kids branded and cajoled via what their parents likes and his music, myths and cartoons would be chosen by him alone. Yes, my husband chose "Strummer" as his middle name but it's been "Who Lite" in our lives for quite some time. He's listening and sometimes protesting but the music had got his attention. Will Pete and The Who over take Al Stewart in the nursery? Stay tuned!

Here are few non Pete/Who songs that have come to mind while reading the book:

A Kid for Two Book Signings

How often do West London rock stars deign to grace East End venues with their presence? Proper East End venues? My adorable husband wanted to surprise me and went down to Truman Brewery this evening to get an autographed copy of "Who I Am" signed by Pete.

We must have miscommunicated because he returned about an hour ago sweetly telling me that his honey had made "him look like a right **** " and that it wasn't on tonight. Well of course not honey, it's on tomorrow night... He missed the England game which is now postponed until tomorrow (thank God!).

He's very determined to go now even though I said "no worries". I'm not able to bring our son over there at that time as he's an early sleeper/early riser so I sadly can't go but he wants me to have a special second copy of the book because he loves me so much. He is the best and we are so lucky to have each other and of course our God like son too who's more of an Al Stewart fan currently.

I'm on page 155 of Who I Am now- right before Tommy. Best autobiography ever! Here's Al Stewart now for you all




(*In Cockney speak the freely used C word means "complete idiot" or "thoughtless person" possessing none of the shocking, damning anti-feminist fist fight inducing incarnation it has if it is used in the States)

Who I Am by Pete Townshend HERE IT IS!

"

                                                                        ICONIC 


(I'm going to be reading and and reviewing Pete's new memoir over the next few days. This is not going to be the syrupy and fawning review by a life long Who fan. This is going to be NSFW real! And Pete is coming to the East End tomorrow....WooWHO!)


So after consulting the index and reading both Ken and Matt Kent's entries I skimmed over the the later chapters and thought...what cack! "Chunderooney" I said to myself as I read a sentence of Pete rebuffing a "mildly Ethiopian looking"  hot chick here and way too much information style references to hooking up with his partner Rachel there. And are my eyes actualy reading that Pete went to a Mankdonna concert? I'm not trying to take the piss with my first world problems folks but f*ck that. This comparatively 'big print" book is really "it"?

As I pathetically customized my Facebook status update to exclude Lawrence Ball, Irish Jack, Michael Cuthbert, Dougal Butler and Simon Townshend I moaned about "not wanting the dream to die" and "free book if you want it" and the best  (and most inadvertently dating one) "I feel Horses Neck was the true definitive bio..." and took it down two minutes later.

Pete Townshend is like Leonardo DiCaprio or Russell Crowe; a star and a myth who can't be mass branded or homogenised to make you feel comfortable-even if you are a long time fan. You see DiCaprio on screen and no matter what he's in, "Titanic" is going to come to mind and instantly you can't really look at what he's doing without seeing this huge overlay of what you think he's supposed to be. But then about ten minutes into a film like "The Departed" you are thinking, "Christ, he's astonishing and this is one of the all time great and most magnetic presences".  Russell Crowe is caught off guard at "In and Out Burger" and he still looks scary and handsome as fuck. Pete is astonishing and resplendent in this exact same way. And I feel like this is Pete Townshend on the big screen; his life squashed down to a few hours and them blown up 40 feet high.

And now I've not really slept much because the book is so great,  starting from the start.  I was about when Pete uploaded an early germination of this memoir and it is wonderful to recognize the bits he kept in. Am I the only one who's noticed that oddly his dark time at his Grandmother's also coincided with the year Meher Baba was in a near fatal and life altering car crash? And that there is no formal dedication. He won't wear Macca's golden suit and hat-ever.

Ken Russell as a biographer of a musicians is smiling down and all around at this book. It's because of Ken that I can see the book as a film and because of Pete that I can hear it and I'm so thankful for that- miserable, crazy and pretentious as I am sometimes. Pete is deserving of his own Ominbus musicians bio and I'm sure Ken is working on it now.

There has been nothing like this book thus far for Who fans and curious Pop culture aficionado/non die hard fans alike.  Just has Tommy "eluded Broadway for thirty years" there has been no major biography (much less autobiography) of this great man so I  literally expected angels, larger than life people and London buses to leap from the pages and what do you know folks? They do!

 BUY THE BOOK PEOPLE!!


He could a tale unfold...."

Two more days and England gets the book!!

Becoming Ken Russell!!!

All fans and advocates of Ken know the name Paul Sutton. In the fellowship he's one of the most committed people to preserving Ken's oeuvre for posterity particularly the first 35 shorter films that Ken did for the BBC. Just as Shade Rupe has worked tirelessly to keep Ken's major studio works before the public, and Ian Fisher keeps the online fires burning, Paul is assuring that the smaller films (films that the UK public paid for) are no longer buried and hard to see. As it stands now, there is only a region 1 release of a half dozen or so films. A region 2 release of some very rare later works is due in a year....makes no sense really. Is it really that challenging for the beeb to make Ken's work available? Work that TV licensing fees paid for?

So in an effort to continue the tradition of Ken Russell scholarship (Ken being the star scholar thus far ;) Paul has authored the first of what is apparently going to be a staggering five volumes of sorely needed "Russell indepth". Started in 2007, Becoming Ken Russell: The Authorised Biography of Ken Russell: Volume One (Volume 1) is now been made available and here is Paul's take on it:

"Ken Russell was thirty-two years old in 1959, having been rejected by the British Film Industry because he didn't have the right family connections or the right school tie. Without connections there was no chance of his having a career in film. Until the industry collapsed. The failing studios at Lime Grove, where Alfred Hitchcock made The 39 Steps, and at Ealing, where Alec Guinness closed a series of unprofitable comedies with The Ladykillers, were now in the control of the BBC. And the BBC were looking for new talent.

Hired as an independent filmmaker, Ken Russell made seven short 35mm films in his first year at Lime Grove and at Ealing. The films were about dance and painting, architecture, comedy, poetry and music. The seven films were all about England. And they were all about him.

The Seven Ken Russell Films of 1959 advanced the art of cinema, acted as a sort of `blueprint' for masters such as Stanley Kubrick, and redefined the meaning of `English Cinema'. The films stand with the best made anywhere in the world that year. The year Ken Russell `became' Ken Russell.

Using tens of thousands of pages of original documents, decades of letters, and hundreds of interviews with Ken Russell, his family and his colleagues, Paul Sutton's multi-volume biography of Russell is the most complete portrait of an English film artist"

Disciples of Shirley Russell ALERT : EVIL QUEEN OF HOLLWAY- COUNTERFEIT VINTAGE REPRODUCTION CLOTHING

This is a call to action for all vintage and vintage reproduction fans, advocates and sellers. I came upon the most awful discovery a few weeks ago while online window shopping.

A website called "Queen of  Holloway"  (I refuse to link to their site).

No, they have ZERO affiliation with the far superior Vivien of Holloway who manufacture clothing in London and put money back into the British economy.  Queen of Holloway may have a British web address but they clearly manufacture in CHINA; stealing ideas, clothing designs and yes, ACTUAL PHOTOS of clothing from ethical Pin Up Clothing designers like Whirling Turban and Bernie Dexter.

The name "Queen of Holloway" is horrendous. That's like calling one's company "Pin Up Gal Clothing" , "The Dancing Turban" or "Fables By Bonnie" a complete and utter copy of someone else's hard work and creativity. Even Vintage reproduction names like Brighton's wonderful Dolly Dagger who have a relatively small production line are being copied which is inexcusable.

So those who are buying Made in China rip offs like this, ask yourself how would YOU feel if you'd started from scratch, building your own following, choosing fabrics and designs that were your personal signature, paying taxes, licensing and then someone simply came along and photo copied every single thing you did and sold it-even down to illegally using your own professional photos?

I see more than few of my fellow dress addicts are buying from "Queen of Holloway" which is saddening. Come on ladies! REALLY bad call!

Many of us who are investing in Pinup and vintage reproduction are considering starting our own clothing lines at some point or have friends that already are. Vintage Repro and Pin Up is becoming big business and a chance to do what you love and have fun while turning a profit. I'm discovering how costly it is and what an investment I'll need to make. I would be gutted if this happened to me and worst of all- powerless. Legal fees for businesses domestically are astronomical enough but international rip offs like this are very hard to monitor and bring to justice because you need thousands of dollars to go after them.

IF YOU BUY FROM EVIL QUEEN OF HOLLOWAY YOU ARE AS BIG A THIEF AS THEY ARE!

F.A.Q.

But isn't ALL Pin Up clothing somewhat of a "copy"?
No.  The majority of what you see has been meticulously hand crafted, modernized and fitted on various shapes and tested (sometimes for years) for fit and form on a multitude of fabrics. Women's lives, figures, fabrics etc are not the same as they were mid-century and vinatge reproduction designers have had to be creative to accommodate this.  The labels being ripped off by Evil Queen of Holloway made it possible for millions of women who can't afford vintage and/or do not fit in high street/modern clothing to look good and feel great in what we wear.

But hasn't there always been this kind of clothing? Why is the price still so high?  No, in fact before the internet, if you were bigger than say a 36C-24-36 and 5'5 and did not live near a major city, your chances of getting vintage that was wearable was near impossible unless you had literally loads of money. Sometimes you'd find new "vintagey" pieces at Macys or Contempo Casuals but only if you were lucky and below a juniors size 13. If you saw a vintage repro in magazine often you could not even find it. As recently as 2000 I tried ordering an Anna Sui vintage style top and when they sent the wrong one I had to travel to Neiman's to return it. Vintage often ripped , fell apart or had to be altered so thankfully the internet and lines like Pin Up Girl clothing, Bernie Dexter , Whirling Turban and  Bettie Page changed all of that for the better AND have kept their business in the USA. The price is NOT high for the quality and the ethics. in fact it is VERY reasonable if you look closer.

But some of the big names in Vintage Reproduction manufacture in China why not buy from "Queen of Holloway"  if its all coming from the same place?  Actually the majority of the big names in vintage repro  do NOT manufacture in China. Stop Staring, Vivien of Holloway, Pin up Girl Clothing, Bettie Page, Bernie Dexter, Fables By Barrie, Heartbreaker, Dolly Dagger etc, etc all create in either the UK or the United States, putting money back into the economy and selling a superior product. Some UK labels like Oasis Floral Frocks and Lady Vintage manufacture in Romania but that's still a huge improvement over China.

What about Trashy Diva? Don't they manufacture out of China?  Yes, Trashy Diva moved their production to China awhile back which of course stinks but not an excuse to see them ripped off as they make a superior product.  For starters they still employ US citizens at FIVE store fronts in New Orleans and they were doing vintage Repro as far back as the 90's. It may not been possible for them to keep stores open and still manufacture in the US. Remember, in the 90s and there was a huge surge in "globalization" and "free trade"  that saw nearly all US and many UK clothing manufacturers outsource to China. The companies operating post 2004 or so, unlike Trashy Diva, have all had the benefits of the internet, Facebook, You Tube, My Space, Pay Pal, Ebay, social networking, Etsy, the Pin Up and burlesque community etc etc etc to make their name. Hopefully Trashy Diva will come back to the US someday. I personally no longer buy their clothing.


But what if I just buy ONE dress that isn't a copy? They have SO many cute fabrics and designs that are NOT copies after all and they have hard to find sizes so what's the harm in that? For starters you are still funding actual fraud. That would be like saying "Ok, I'm not a thief if I steal your butter but not your cow."  You can go onto Etsy and have custom dresses made where you can pay off the seamstress in instalments and get an astonishing product that will last a lifetime. Sometimes a custom dress on Etsy is as low as 150.00. You can get a great product made by someone earning a living wage or walk around in your Chinese slave labour rip off dress-the choice is up to you.

Sorry, I'm still not sold. A dress is a dress and I'm not paying high prices.  Please see below then.

When you buy  Made in China Pin Up Clothing and counterfeit Vintage reproductions from  fakes such as "Queen of Holloway" you are supporting the horrific tragedy above. The Chinese Government will do nothing to stop Rhino and Tiger extinction and are in fact encouraging it. And of course human rights abuses in China are some of the worst in the world and include some of the most awful things I've ever read about and will not mention here. True, we have all been literally forced via the greedy 1% in this era to buy many things we need from China but at LEAST Pin Up fans and vintage aficionados are  keeping  their money in Europe and the US. 

WE MUST SUPPORT THEM AND SAY NO MORE MADE IN CHINA! NO TO COUNTERFEIT VINTAGE REPROS!

IF YOU DON'T THEN YOU PAY FOR THE ABOVE.  Convinced now?

Walking up to Valhalla

Our endless UK rain gave way to glorious sunshine and a few willowy clouds and Ken had a wonderful send off with all his dearest family and friends this past Monday afternoon, 9th of July. He had asked especially for a Viking funeral and his wife Lisi officiated a lovely ceremony. The ceremony was held on the spectacular Beaulieu River in Hampshire which starts next to homes and gardens, winds past homes to meet the marinas and small boats and then pours into the sea. Ken is joined with all this beauty not so far from where he was born, came of age and where he lived and will continue to surrounded by loved ones and friends. When I was about 6 or 7 I read a story in a school book of two boys who had a little river tributary near their home and sailed a canoe upon it. In the book they also became lost and spent the night in a forest building a 'tent' from branches and leaves. The illustration looked just like where Ken is today.


Early sun on Beaulieu water
Lights the undersides of oaks,
Clumps of leaves it floods and
All transparent glow the branches
Which the double sunlight soaks;
And to her craft on Beaulieu water
Clemency the General's daughter
Pulls across with even strokes.

Schoolboy sure she is this morning;
Soon her sharpie's rigg'd and free.
Cool beneath a garden awning
Mrs Fairclough sipping tea
And raising large long-distance glasses
As the little sharpie passes,
Sighs our sailor girl to see:

Tulip figure, so appealing,

Oval face, so serious-eyed,

Tree-roots pass'd and muddy beaches,

On to huge and lake-like reaches

Soft and sun-warm, see her glide,

Slacks the slim young limbs

revealing,

Sun-brown arm the tiller feeling,

Before the wind and with the tide.

Evening light will bring the water,

Day-long sun will burst the bud,

Clemency, the General's daughter

Will return upon the flood.

But the older woman only

Knows the ebb tide leaves her lonely.

With the shining fields of mud.

Youth and Age on Beaulieu River, by John Betjeman
Hants (1945)



The river is always flowing
Relentless towards the costal tides
It travels down to the great ocean
While most of us simply watch from the water side

The water becomes Siddhartha's teacher
Sometimes powerful and stern
Sometimes gentle , forgiving
It never changes in direction
As it carries even mountains down to the sea

I'll take you over
I don't want your money
Just hang on tight
Till we reach the other wall
Kings and beggars
They all cling to my ankle
The horn blows wide, and the currents roar

God fill this gutter
That breaks my shoulder
Smash me to pieces
And wash me to mud
Dry me to dust
And set me to smolder
Please let me dissolve in the autumn flood

The rivers always flowing
But I'm free now
From It's grace
I'll be swept down to the ocean
And now you
You will take my place

-Pete Townshend "The Ferrymen"

Ken Russell's Birthday and Viking Send Off!

Ken had his Viking Celebration on The Beaulieu river and his birthday this week More details to follow.

For these hard times

 "Tommy at last realizes he’s not a spiritual guide, he’s one more human being, who needs to learn from other people, from all humanity.  At last, he sings triumphantly, “Right behind you, I see the millions." Ascending to the mountaintop, he reaches the peak and triumphantly greets the rising sun, a huge, warm, reddish sphere that en-haloes his entire body in a victorious stance, legs apart, arms spread in exultation. This is only the second time the full circle of the sun has appeared in this movie filled with shiny spheres and moons. The first time was in the first scene, where Tommy’s dad, in mountaineering garb, reached the peak of the same mountain at sunset, and then began his descent, as we know, into death. Tommy returns to the mountain and the sun reunites him with his father and his vital inheritance as a living human. 

With this closing scene, Russell has literally fitted the entire opera between the two celestial spheres, the sun and moon, raising every human’s battle to break out of the lies that conceal reality to an epic level. Transcendence, Russell seems to be saying, isn’t achieved by playing human games like pinball, in which you progress through a linear pattern to higher and higher numbers, and judge your success by popular acclaim.  Rather, it is an adventure that you do not begin until you throw over the oppressors that prevent you from speaking the truth.  Russell concludes a work that takes over your senses at high speed and high volume with a message that, although born from the turmoil of the sixties, will resonate meaningfully for generations to come" - by Charles Carreon

 

 THE UNIVERSAL MESSAGE

Meher Baba

I have come not to teach but to awaken. Understand therefore that I lay down no precepts.
Throughout eternity I have laid down principles and precepts, but mankind has ignored them. Man's inability to live God's words makes the Avatar's teaching a mockery. Instead of practising the compassion he taught, man has waged crusades in his name. Instead of living the humility, purity and truth of his words, man has given way to hatred, greed and violence.
Because man has been deaf to the principles and precepts laid down by God in the past, in this present avataric form I observe Silence. You have asked for and been given enough words — it is now time to live them. To get nearer and nearer to God you have to get further and further away from "I", "My", and "Mine". You have not to renounce anything but your own self. It is as simple as that, though found to be almost impossible. It is possible for you to renounce your limited self by my Grace. I have come to release that Grace.
I repeat, I lay down no precepts. When I release the tide of Truth which I have come to give, men's daily lives will be the living precept. The words I have not spoken will come to life in them.
I veil myself from man by his own curtain of ignorance, and manifest my Glory to a few. My present avataric Form is the last Incarnation of this cycle of time, hence my Manifestation will be the greatest. When I break my Silence, the impact of my Love will be universal and all life in creation will know, feel and receive of it. It will help every individual to break himself free from his bondage in his own way. I am the Divine Beloved who loves you more than you can ever love yourself. The breaking of my Silence will help you to help yourself in knowing your real self.
All this world confusion and chaos was inevitable and no one is to blame. What had to happen has happened; and what has to happen will happen. There was and is no way out except through my coming in your midst. I had to come, and I have come. I am the Ancient One.

The Disciples of Shirely Russell: Kelly Brook Pin Up/ Vintage Reproduction Collection for New Look: User Review

(The Disciples of Shirley Russell Blog posts review costumes and Vintage reproduction clothing. To see some of the greatest vintage 1950's dresses ever reproduced (and worn by the master singer/dancer/actress hourglass Ann-Margaret) please check out this piece I wrote on Shirley's unparalleled work on Ken's film of the Who Rock Opera Tommy. Shirley Russell smiles down on all vintage repro fans.)

KELLY BROOK NEW LOOK COLLECTION SUMMER 2012: AN INDEPTH USER GUIDE AND INDEPENDENT REVIEW BY SUPER AMANDA

(Kelly Brook on Brighton Pier- enviably personifying the ultimate British Pin Up life)


(Sophia Loren and Jack Hawkins in "Judith". The fine art of vintage short shorts and crackin thighs!)



(Beautiful inky florals and poppies from "Scandal in Sorrento" were borrowed for Kelly's New Look Collection)

I admire Kelly Brook's personal style and charm so I was very excited when I read that following her well received and quality Christmas, lingerie and swim wear collections for New Look that she was finally releasing a full ready to wear line. For my American friends, New Look is a UK High Street store that has no real comparison in the states for such great quality at such a great price. They manufacture mostly in Romania and even have a Green line of Fair Trade dresses. This thus far 30 piece collection for New Look is officially the first large scale High Street Pin Up inspired line ever produced.

Finally I might add!

            (It Started in Naples. Believe me folks, it really did.)

Kelly's promo has been that this collection is for 'curvy girls to showcase their assets" and that the designs are inspired by her style icons ; Gina Lollobrigida, Sophia Loren and B. Bardot. I should add, that those three woman are not only my style icons too but my everything- especially Sophia Loren. As a Southern Italian woman she perennially personifies our culture in so many ways that go far beyond beauty. As an actress I've seen most of her 100 plus films and love Sophia's rare records as well. Bardot born a few weeks after Sophia is of course an entirely different icon and cultural figure but nonetheless is still beloved by millions. Gina Lollobrigida, like Loren, also speaks to me as an Italian woman.  A very talented actress and photographer, her style is of a very elegant Gran Signora even frequenting the same corsetier as Queen Elizabeth once did during the 1950's. Both women were a mind boggling 36-22-34.

(La Lollo: Italy's First Female Film Goddess)


   (Bardot in a daisy/sunflower print dress very similar to Kelly's collection)


So I really wanted to see if Kelly Brook went beyond just skimming coffee table books and the most well known films and was able to capture the style essence of all three mythic goddesses. More importantly, I wanted to see how and if the items were structured for curvy women. Many lines make this claim and never deliver either coming out with dowdy designs or simply cutting them for a narrow figure who just happens to be busty. Kelly (alongside Sofia Vergara) has currently the world's most perfect hourglass figure. And like Vergara, her flawless figure is down to fantastic luck and thus unrealistic for most women to use as an inspiration. She's very slim, very fine boned and yet wondrously buxom and shapely hipped at the same time. It is hard to believe that such a perfect looking woman (one who can beautifully wear skinny low rise jeans with thigh high boots as well as vintage Pin up dresses) could also create a clothing line that's would look good on a Neapolitan Amazon or just the average shapely UK woman.

All my doubts were cast aside-this is a wicked line of clothing which made almost none of the same mistakes previous designers have! And while the clothes are not specifically sized or designed for an ultra curvaceous figure the way say Shoshanna Lonstein used to cut her clothing back in the day, the collection will flatter many with curves as well as those who are slim. So far I have 7 pieces (a birthday present from my husband) 4 dresses, 1 playsuit, and the shorts/crop top set and I plan to get almost the entire line.

First things first:

Made in Europe: I'm phasing out buying anything made in China. Made in the USA and Made in the UK and Europe is where my money is going. Enough said.

The Poppy Print: A variation through out the line was lifted to glorious vintage repro- effect  from Sophia Loren's famous sweetheart swing dress from Scandal in Sorrento (see above). Inky florals, poppies and sunflowers are all lovely. I preferred prints that were smaller and the solid dark periwinkle blue. The bigger prints are still very wearable though even in the sometimes troublesome colour of satsuma.

Fit : Running very true to size with the playsuits coming up a tad smaller on taller gals (5'8 and above) as they usually tend to. For US shoppers, British sizing at New Look is roomy so when you do your conversions check the size chart first to the letter, er, number.

Stand-outs: The 39.99 dresses and the structured bra tops. The colours, the fabrics, the fit...magnificent!



The off the shoulder inky flower dress (above) is my favourite. Really flattering to a larger bust without cleavage showing while working almost any occasion.

                                                         

The Hawaiian Print was designed with both Bardot and La Lolo in mind and keeps a 50's shape while having an off -shoulder ease and drape that works on all figures.

                                                         

The satiny cotton periwinkle blue structured bust dress is very Roman Holiday. Enough bust showing to look sexy but long enough to still look classy. Comes with a nice wide belt for waist cinching. The red polka dot skirt has a vintage pencil shape and nice fit. The Black Body Con dress will work on all figures but the mega endowed may have button up issues as I did. The red polka dot structured bust top is fantastic for bigger busts though (see below for a more indepth review)

The Satsuma sunflower, daisy print dress is cut with the same structured bust as the blue dress (only a thin belt is included here) and is a lovely day time, popping down to Broadway Market/Columbia Road (I do this often, not an affectation) sexier take on the British Tea Dress.



The Peplum dress is a very popular look in the UK this entire year, popping up in digi prints, ditsy florals and scarf print silks. While the print was a tad too big for my tastes, this dress will look beautiful on all figures..

The Bust is a MUST: The structured busts on two dresses, one playsuit and two tops are fantastic and Kelly and her team created a great fit that works beyond an E cup with great support. Due to the versatility of the design smaller busts are not left out either and will actually look bigger. The secret is that the back is partially open (accommodating nearly all figures), coming up at the neck and shoulders into a semi halter shape with the wide straps opening into a sweetheart bust in the front. It feels like a harness effect which means you don't need a bra. I'm a 34G/32GG and the fit is wonderful. With the zipper closure at the lower back you've got fit. And joy of joys! The cups are not wired. So no wire to eventually poke out at you. Howard Hughes could not have done a better job if he tried. If you are going into an Hcup or bigger than a 34/36UK under bust sizing than you may have fit issues. If so then stick with the other dresses. (See below trio photo to get an idea of the back)

The skorts with attached skirt:  A clever retro look that few (if any) Vintage Repro lines ever have attempted. These are roomy but tad too short for my tastes. Still very cute for pottering around the house and garden or dog walking of course.

Shoes and handbags: All are very cute and of a very decent make. Kelly did not do any wide widths in the two espadrille wedgies and four wonderful court shoes so sadly no shoes for me but I can still wholeheartedly recommend.



Minor Criticisms:

Button down closure The crop top (see very top pic and trio centre below), the peplum camisole and the Black polka dot Body Con dress are not possible to close on big breasts but still very cute. If you are say a size 10 or 12 with a 28 or 30F or even 32G you may be in luck but 14-16 34Gs like me should stick with the aforementioned dresses. I'm getting my crop top altered professionally.

Playsuits: The two in the collection are fab but may not be long enough if you are tall. Though they are cut well and sized perfectly for larger busts, at almost 5'10, my red dot playsuit which is really mostly a bathing suit (above) just fit. And it is cotton with almost no stretch (possibly translucent when wet? Update: Yes, it is!). The New Look website incorrectly stated "100% polyester" which means "swim suit material" and "four way stretch" so when I got home the shop I was a bit disappointed as it looked very roomy on the rack. The floral playsuit was almost all gone so I never was able to try it on in my size though it looked adorable and I love the darker take on the poppy print.

Red Polka dot trousers: Were very cute but running a bit small all around and actually cut with a slight late 90's low rise making them the one joker in the pack. They'll look the best on super skinny legs like Kelly has.



High waisted jeans, shorts, tie front blouse and T-shirts (above) were cute but seemed out of place at least in fit as far a briefness was concerned. The shorts were short enough to be inspired reproductions of what Sophia Loren wore in "Woman of The River" or "Judith" (see above second photo) but those were films! I think vintage reproduction hot pants and denim is an exact science that takes a historian of fashion (like say vintage clothing expert, designer and pinup model Bernie Dexter ) to master after trial and error. I hope Kelly takes them down a few more inches in her next collection with black or raw denim and adds some blue and red floral dresses perhaps. Wide width shoes and more bags of course. And here's to her next collection!  More, more, more!

This is a WONDERFUL range and Kelly Brook and New Look should be proud of the High Street's first vintage reproduction line which can be worn by a wide range body and bust types. Looking forward to the next collection with baited wallet!